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St. Vincent: The Explore Charter Cruising Guide for the Caribbean.

TRINIDAD AND TOBAGO

 

Back in 1498, the ambitious Columbus came again with his fleet to the New World, this time from the southwest after being becalmed for more than a week in the sweltering doldrums. When finally the southeast trades filled the sails, the fleet saw three small peaks.

The Admiral named the land for the Holy Trinity.

The hills he saw, reportedly from 40 miles out, are still called the Trinity Hills.

Thereafter, Trinidad remained rather removed from the action in the rest of the Caribbean, except for a flurry of activity when a city of gold known as El Dorado was rumored to exist far up the nearby Orinoco River, a rumor that led Sir Walter Raleigh to mount an expedition there.

While Raleigh never found a trace of gold, his imagination went wild some would say: he wrote luridly of a country "that hath yet her maidenhead; the graves have not been opened for gold, the miners not broken with sledges nor their images pulled down out of their temples"-in fact a place that was "the mother load of all rich metals." (Read his diary: The vast Highlands of Guyana)

Unlike Columbus and Walter, most yachtsmen approach Trinidad from the north, often on a close reach from Grenada and usually with some bewilderment as they discover how far the west-going current has set them off course.

From Venezuela you would approach from the west with Bahia San Francisco as the last anchorage on the peninsula of Paria usually motoring by night when the wind dies.

In fact a landfall during the last hours of darkness makes sense, in order to take advantage of the powerful Chacachare Light and less wind. Plan, by all means, to come through the Bocas in daylight!

The usual choice among the Dragon's Mouths is the Boca de Monas, where the current, if you hit it at the wrong time, may be running as much as 5 knots. In this case you will find les s current in Boca de Huevos. The current sets north except for about two hours at each change, when, in effect, it is only neutralized. The current almost never sets south.

Sea conditions are generally rough as a result of the confluence of winds and currents coming out of the Gulf of Paria and around the north coast of Trinidad.

No Caribbean island is as racially diverse as Trinidad.

Most prevalent are the blacks and East Indians, about equal in numbers; then, to add to the mixture, are Chinese, Portuguese, Syrians, Jews, and various Latin Americans. These are the people who stage each year the carnival of all carnivals and who initiated the sly and beguiling calypso, which, in turn, led to the invention of the steel drum. Far from being simply an upside down, sawed-off oil drum, it is in fact a precision instrument, its top (bottom) hammered to a certain stage of concavity, with the musical notes hammered into oval shapes around the perimeter and tempered by means of glowing charco al to just the right pitch.

The rainy season comes in June, July, and August; the driest months are March and April. A big plus is that Trinidad lies south of the hurricane paths; in fact on only two or three occasions in the island's recorded history has there been storm damage to crops.

Port of Spaín

The only port for entering and clearing, is now a yacht haven for yachties needing repairs and overhauls on there boats.

In the Bay you will find hundreds of boats from all over the world a fantastic sight

Across Wrightson Road from the quarantine station is the Mariners' Club, a clean, well-run establishment supported by a church auxiliary in England for the benefit of all seamen, and it may still include yachtsmen, including free showers, free movies several times a week, a bar serving beer and soft drinks, a clean swimming pool (for a nominal fee), and a small restaurant producing good, home-cooked meals at very reasonable prices + the special atmosphere created here.

Port-of-Spain to Dragon's Mouths

As we have said, this northern pincer of the island is where the yachts are, but the water is uninviting for swimming and the coast is exposed. We are now progressing west from Port-of-Spain, after getting police permission to move.

Trinidad Yacht Club ,

Which lies in 61°34.2'W, took a merciless chop every afternoon until a breakwater of sunken wrecks was built and a marina constructed in its lee.

Repairs can be made there. Make arrangements with the club manager. Water, fuel, and ice are available.

 

Trinidad Yachting Association

Based in the cove on the NE side of Pointe Gourde. Unfortunately, it is also quite open to the prevailing swell, unless a much-discussed breakwater has been built. This club caters to the sailing population hereabouts and has good facilities, but no fuel. The racing season extends from November to May.

Chaguaramas Bay

Formerly the U.S. Navy's lend-Iease base, provides one of the snuggest anchorages in the area up in its NE comer, but it's crowded with permanent moorings. The Swan-Hunter Shipyard, which used to repair yachts, has been developed into many different is closed. Fuel is available at Island Home.

Staubles Bay

The local name of the next bight to the W. Here you will find good shelter, fuel, groceries, and a coast-guard station that is an excellent source of "local knowl­edge" about this area.

Scotland Bay

Attractive, very snug, and so popular with local yachtsmen that it is usually crowded on weekends. Contrary to the chart, the deep water runs way up to the end.

Monos Island

Gives you Morris Bay, also the bay on the SE side of the island called Copper Hole by local residents. Though it would not appear so from the chart, this latter bay is quiet at almost all times.

Chacachare Island

Offers good anchorage deep in the western portion of this bay. When you are rounding the SW point of the island, there is safe water for passing inside of Diamond Rock to an excellent anchorage called Tinta Bay. Drop the hook anywhere off this reef-strewn shore.

Lower Gulf of Paria

Running down the W coast of Trinidad (in case you want to have a look at the forest of drilling platforms and maybe a 200,OOO-ton tanker or two), stay well off the shallow mud flats all along this shore. On the sail down, the oil rig in about 10°28' N, 61°33' W makes a conspicuous mark along an otherwise nondescript shore.

From here a circular cruise might be made to the fishing port of Guiria, an artificial harbor on the Venezuelan shore and first stop for Columbus on his third voyage, thence back to the island in the Dragon's Mouths. The necessity of clearing in and out of Venezuela keeps most people from doing this. Guiria is a port of entry to Venezuela.

The North Coast of Trinidad

AII the bays along this shore are subject to big swells, but Las Cuevas Bay is said to be tenable when the wind is south of east, generally from March to October.

AII the bays along this shore are subject to big swells, but Las Cuevas Bay is said to be tenable when the wind is south of east, generally from March to October.

 

TOBAGO

The sister island  of Trinidad, to which she has been politically and economically tied ever since the final collapse of her sugar industry in 1888, poor little Tobago languishes in the sun, wearing the wistful smile of an island that once was prosperous and much desired by several of Europe's big powers.

In many ways, Tobago (named through some obscure reference to the pipe with which the natives smoked their tobacco) is an example of the West Indian islands-that-were, even though the tourist hotels are there.

Many yachtsmen, lulled by the steady breezes that have let them sail down the island chain in comfortable reaches, think twice before heading out to still an­other island that actually requires tacking to reach-and against a substantial current, too.

 

Consequently Tobago remains a neglected island so far as yachts are concerned, but lately it has become the fashion among retired English and America’s to buy a piece of tropical land and build a house.

Tobago offers sandy beaches with graceful stands of coconut palms, clear waters, a diving reef to remem­ber, some spectacular rockbound coastal scenery, and a handful of secure anchor­ages, each picturesque enough to hold a yachtsman for a couple of days or so.

 

Tobago Island is easier to reach from Grenada, about 70 miles northwestward, than from Trinidad. However, we left Port-of-Spain, Trinidad, at noon and power-sailed to Las Cuevas Bay, a rolly but protected roadstead midway along Trinidad's north coast. The next day it took us from 0545 to 1830 to power-sail the 35 miles against wind and current to Milford Bay on the southwest comer of Tobago.

If you are approaching from the southwest, the Drew Shoal is so clear that the bottom can be seen, a welcome relief from the Orinoco river that taints the waters all around Trinidad.

This area of shoal water is often rough, and depths may be les s than shown on charts. It is probably best to avoid it.

Only the north shore of Tobago is a practical cruising area, since the windward side, even when the wind is down, is subject to an incessant ocean swell, except for King's Bay, near the east end of the island, which is sufficiently indented to dissipate most of this swell. The beaches on the windward shore are a dark and unappealing sand, whereas much whiter sand and clearer water will be found on the northern coast.

The northeastern end of Tobago is mountainous and sparsely settled, and most of the activity and the resort operations are at the westerly end, which tapers to a flat plain.

 

Scarborough

Is the principal town and a rolly anchorage.

With its fishing boats and classic looks it an good example of a forgotten Caribbean. Anchor among the fishing boats or go to the government dock, where you may be allowed to lie alongside or moor in Mediterranean fashion.

 

While in Scarborough, visit the Botanical Gardens that all the former British colonies have.

It is amazing and nothing like the botanical gardens back home.

Climb the 430-foot heights to Fort George for a panoramic view of town and countryside spotting Trinidad on a clear day.

Look for the old water tank shaped like a bell and shout into it: "Bell, tank wants more water," then listen for the results.

In 1801, the old fort was the scene of an interesting subterfuge by a clever officer of the garrison, who, hearing of a planned revolt by the slaves, arrested thirty of the leaders and, to the horror of the townspeople watching from below the walls, summarily hanged them one by one from a conspicuous gallows. Later, to the immense relief of the owners of these valuable slaves, it developed that the same man had been hoisted thirty times to the peak of the gallows.

 

Milford Bay

Is a far better place to live and anchor than Scarborough.

Anchor anywhere, according to your draft, off the white sand beach between Sandy and Pigeon Points.

Hotels and shops line the beach in a tranquil way.

The vivid Turquoise colors of the water inside Buccoo Reef add to the beauty of the place.

The well-defined reef is constantly breaking, and with some advance soundings from the dinghy, depth seems to change here, it should be possible to gain the shelter of this pretty body of water through the more northerly of the two obvious reef openings. As a present your own private anchorage with the best from the sea.

 

Mount Irvine Bay

Provides anchorage anywhere along the reasonably white sand beach. This bay is readily identified by the conspicuous jagged rock off Booby Point and by the hotel of the same name as the bay at the place marked "Chy" on the chart. Expect a low, lazy swell here.

 

Courtland Bay

Gives you excellent shelter under the high bluffs toward Plymouth town, and a pleasant anchorage will be found off the Turtle Beach Hotel. The bay gets its name from the Earl of Pembroke, who was al so the Duke of Courland and ruled the Baltic principality of that name, now a province of Latvia. Charles the 1st. of England gave Tobago to the earl in 1628, as a birthday present (nice present!).

The bluff overlooking the bay is the ruins of Fort James, finished in 1666 and it is the island's oldest fortification.

Not far away is a famous gravestone with an inscription saying:

 

“Within these Walls are Deposited the Bodies of Betty Steven and child. She was the beloved wife of Alex B. Steven who to the end of his days will deplore her Death which happened upon the 25th day of November, 1783, in the 23rd year of her Age. What was remarkable of her, she was a mother without knowing it and a wife without letting her husband know it, except by her kind indulgences to him”.

 

A household slave and planter's mistress with unborn child?

The conjectures go on and on, but no one really knows.

 

Man of War Bay

At the NE corner of the island is enclosed by precipitous hills and a curving beach. It is an exceptionally delightful anchorage during the summer months.

People of Charlottesville are friendly as elsewhere in Tobago.

 

As you are rounding the comer of the island amidst the tide rips, it is best to stay outside the Saint Giles and Marble islands and avoid the awash rocks and Man of War Bay, northeast end of Tobago swift current that sluices between Saint Giles and the mainland.

Though the anchoring possibilities in the vicinity of Tyrell's Bay looks promising on the chart, local sailors warn of difficult winds, seas, and currents here.

Anse Bateau is the best choice.

If you want to visit the wildlife refuge on Little Tobago Island, home of the birds of paradise introduced from the Aru Islands of Indonesia in 1909, we suggest anchoring in King's Bay and coming back 3 1/2 miles by dinghy.

This bird paradise is now again open for the public and is defiantly worth half a day. This wildlife refuge It is owned by the Trinidad and Tobago government and is closed on public holidays.

 

King's Bay

Surrounded by high hills, and a brook of clear water spills into the cove through a coconut grove.

Lieutenant-Governor Alexander Brown, the first British gover­nor of Tobago, landed on the beach here in 1764 and reviewed a guard of honor.

Picture that ceremonial event as you stand into this anchorage in the NE comer af the bay.

This bay it is cool and perfectly safe unless the wind is blowing hard from the south.

 

Prince's Bay

Good shelter from the wind up in the NE comer, but the swell makes it sometimes uncomfortable, and the rather squalid village of Roxborough doesn't enhance the surroundings.

Nearby King's Bay is a much better choice and worth it’s name.

We arrange a 2 week charter cruising trough the best of the Caribbean islands onboard the sailboat Audrey with capacity for 6 persons including: Captain and cook and all meals with open bar. The price is $125 per person a day with a minimum of 4 persons. For more information please contact us: audrey@explore-yachts.com 

 

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