BARBADOS

If Carlisle Bay looks like the headquarters of the international yacht set from late November through February, it's only because Barbados is the easternmost and thus the most logical target for the transatlantic sailors who annually scoot across from the Canaries at the end of each hurricane season. Some say that eight out of ten such sailors make for Barbados, and it's not uncommon to find several of them in the bay at one time. And you'll see a mob if you happen to land there just following the finish of the ARC race (now using St. Lucia as there final landing), an annual transatlantic event with an entry of 50 or more cruising yachts that finishes in Barbados around Christmas.

 

During the rest of the year, visiting yachts are few and far between, for Barbados really has little to offer in contrast to the cruising attractions of the Windward chain and Barbados lies a hundred miles dead into the wind. Indeed, the best way to reach this island outpost is downwind from Europe or south from Martinique, hopefully on one tack.

 

Perhaps because Barbados is less than 20 miles long and its highest hill only, 100 feet, Columbus never sighted it on any of his four voyages. While the quest for gold drew sailors farther to the west, this small island to windward lay virtually undiscovered until the British established a colony in 1627.

They con­tinued to hold it until 1966, when colonial possessions had become taboo. In the course of those 339 years of uninterrupted British rule, Barbados has, in spite of its climate, absorbed the look and feel of the British countryside, Devon and Cornwall in particular. Ancient stone parish churches, cricket on the green, schoolboys in caps, and girls in starched uniforms and straw boaters are common sights around the island.

Making landfall after from St. Lucia the Captain of Obsession a 53 foot sloop reports:

Approaching from the east at night, the light on South Point can be seen 15 miles at sea but the island actually becomes visible far beyond that range because of the 100m of the lights of the airport and the metropolis of Bridgetown.

 

Not only is Barbados so far to windward of her neighbor islands, she lacks any natural harbors for yachts. And so she is even less attractive. Of course, the wind seldom blows from the west, so anchorage may be taken anywhere along the west shore, but there is a persistent surge, and during the summer and fall there is always that worrisome feeling that a tropical storm just might come through to upset the trade wind's steady pattern. If one comes, there's no place to go.

 

Actually, the Careenage, right in the center of Bridgetown, is a natural harbor, but it is too small and too commercially oriented to be suitable for a yacht, and the new commercial harbor N of town is off limits to yachts. The Careenage approach channel carries 12 feet through a restricted entrance that the sailboat Obsession found very uncomfortable at 0200 hours on Christmas morning in 1992.

Frankly admitting that attempting the entrance at night proved to be a mistake in more ways than one.

 

However, the customs were most understanding and cleared us next morning at the dock.

 

Carlisle Bay is the deepest indentation on the lee side of the island and thus the principal anchorage. Although it is protected from the direct blast of the trade winds, a considerable surge makes its way around Needham Point when the wind is easterly, and when the wind is from the NW, rollers come right into the bay. Landing a dinghy on shore is almost always difficult. A commercial yacht facility, the Boatyard, is the best answer. They are located just south of the harbor police pier where the national flag is flying.

The Boatyard has a boat landing and runs a shore boat service, and it offers many other services yachtsmen need as well. This landing is within walking distance of shops in town.

 

Further south, the Holiday Inn and its pier are flanked by the Barbados Cruising Club to the S and the Barbados Yacht Club to the N.

The Barbados Cruising Club has about 200 members; it's basically a small sailing-boat operation, although it boasts a core of hardy long-distance cruisers. Nothing is fancy here, but the bar on the second story is an ideal place to sit and scan the scene of anchored boats in the background and the bathing types from the inn strewn along the delightful beach below. Visiting yachtsmen are cordially received here.

If you wish to anchor off this club stay N of the tanker mooring buoy that lies off the Hilton Hotel pier.

The Barbados Yacht Club is far more pretentious, and is an important part of the island's social scene, but here too you will find the welcome mat out. The Clubhouse is comfortable, and the premises include a nice beach, showers, and tennis courts. Anchor about 200 yards off over a good-holding sand bottom in 20-30 feet. Since there is some coral on the bottom, using chain with the anchor is advised.

Near the innermost of three black can buoys in a line toward the city, snorkel­ing enthusiasts will find an interesting wreck with about 4 feet of water over it.

 

Small autos can be rented for sightseeing the island, with its endless miles of sugarcane and dramatic views of the thundering seas on the windward side at Bathsheba, Conger Rocks, and Cherry tree Hill, or for visiting the place whence cometh the yachtsman's favorite rum-the Mount Gay distillery. With right hand-drive rentals, you'll quickly become accustomed to driving on the left-hand side.

 

We can't be sure, but Barbados may be the only place in the world where flying fish are harvested commercially, with gill nets or small fish hooks, several to a line. During the January to May peak season they are inexpensive and delicious whether fried, baked, or smoked, and no problem bone wise. Other local food products are limes (December to May), sugar, yams and sweet potatoes, bread­fruit, pigeon peas, coconuts, green paw paws, and onions.

We arrange a 2 week charter cruising trough the best of the Caribbean islands onboard the sailboat Audrey with capacity for 6 persons including: Captain and cook and all meals with open bar. The price is $125 per person a day with a minimum of 4 persons. For more information please contact us: audrey@explore-yachts.com