BARBADOS
If Carlisle Bay looks like the headquarters
of the international yacht set from late November through February, it's only
because Barbados is the easternmost and thus the most logical target for the
transatlantic sailors who annually scoot across from the Canaries at the end
of each hurricane season. Some say that eight out of ten such sailors make for
Barbados, and it's not uncommon to find several of them in the bay at one
time. And you'll see a mob if you happen to land there just following the
finish of the ARC race (now using St. Lucia as there final landing), an annual
transatlantic event with an entry of hundreds or more cruising yachts that finishes
in Barbados around Christmas.
During the rest of the year, visiting yachts
are few and far between, for Barbados really has little to offer in contrast
to the cruising attractions of the Windward chain and Barbados lies a hundred
miles dead into the wind. Indeed, the best way to reach this island outpost is
downwind from Europe or south from Martinique, hopefully on one tack.
Perhaps because Barbados is less than 20
miles long and its highest hill only, 100 feet, Columbus never sighted it on
any of his four voyages. While the quest for gold drew sailors farther to the
west, this small island to windward lay virtually undiscovered until the
British established a colony in 1627.
They continued to hold it until 1966, when
colonial possessions had become taboo. In the course of those 339 years of
uninterrupted British rule, Barbados has, in spite of its climate, absorbed
the look and feel of the British countryside, Devon and Cornwall in
particular. Ancient stone parish churches, cricket on the green, schoolboys in
caps, and girls in starched uniforms and straw boaters are common sights
around the island.
Making landfall after from St. Lucia the
Captain of Obsession a 53 foot sloop reports:
Approaching from the east at night, the light
on South Point can be seen 15 miles at sea but the island actually becomes
visible far beyond that range because of the 100m of the lights of the airport
and the metropolis of Bridgetown.
Not only is Barbados so far to windward of
her neighbor islands, she lacks any natural harbors for yachts. And so she is
even less attractive. Of course, the wind seldom blows from the west, so
anchorage may be taken anywhere along the west shore, but there is a
persistent surge, and during the summer and fall there is always that
worrisome feeling that a tropical storm just might come through to upset the
trade wind's steady pattern. If one comes, there's no place to go.
Actually, the Careenage, right in the center
of Bridgetown, is a natural harbor, but it is too small and too commercially
oriented to be suitable for a yacht, and the new commercial harbor N of town
is off limits to yachts. The Careenage approach channel carries 12 feet
through a restricted entrance that the sailboat Obsession found very
uncomfortable at 0200 hours on Christmas morning in 1992.
Frankly admitting that attempting the
entrance at night proved to be a mistake in more ways than one.
However, the customs were most understanding
and cleared us next morning at the dock.
Carlisle Bay is the deepest indentation on
the lee side of the island and thus the principal anchorage. Although it is
protected from the direct blast of the trade winds, a considerable surge makes
its way around Needham Point when the wind is easterly, and when the wind is
from the NW, rollers come right into the bay. Landing a dinghy on shore is
almost always difficult. A commercial yacht facility, the Boatyard, is the
best answer. They are located just south of the harbor police pier where the
national flag is flying.
The Boatyard has a boat landing and runs a
shore boat service, and it offers many other services yachtsmen need as well.
This landing is within walking distance of shops in town.
Further south, the Holiday Inn and its
pier are flanked by the Barbados Cruising Club to the S and the Barbados Yacht
Club to the N.
The Barbados Cruising Club has about 200
members; it's basically a small sailing-boat operation, although it boasts a
core of hardy long-distance cruisers. Nothing is fancy here, but the bar on
the second story is an ideal place to sit and scan the scene of anchored boats
in the background and the bathing types from the inn strewn along the
delightful beach below. Visiting yachtsmen are cordially received here.
If you wish to anchor off this club
stay N of the tanker mooring buoy that lies off the Hilton Hotel pier.
The Barbados Yacht Club is far more
pretentious, and is an important part of the island's social scene, but here
too you will find the welcome mat out. The Clubhouse is comfortable, and the
premises include a nice beach, showers, and tennis courts. Anchor about 200
yards off over a good-holding sand bottom in 20-30 feet. Since there is some
coral on the bottom, using chain with the anchor is advised.
Near the innermost of three black can buoys
in a line toward the city, snorkeling enthusiasts will find an interesting
wreck with about 4 feet of water over it.
Small autos can be rented for sightseeing the
island, with its endless miles of sugarcane and dramatic views of the
thundering seas on the windward side at Bathsheba, Conger Rocks, and Cherry
tree Hill, or for visiting the place whence cometh the yachtsman's favorite
rum-the Mount Gay distillery. With right hand-drive rentals, you'll quickly
become accustomed to driving on the left-hand side.
We can't
be sure, but Barbados may be the only place in the world where flying fish are
harvested commercially, with gill nets or small fish hooks, several to a line.
During the January to May peak season they are inexpensive and delicious
whether fried, baked, or smoked, and no problem bone wise. Other local food
products are limes (December to May), sugar, yams and sweet potatoes,
breadfruit, pigeon peas, coconuts, green paw paws, and onions.
We
can arrange a 2 week crewed charter cruising trough the Eastern Caribbean Islands
onboard the sailboat
Camiguana with capacity for 6 persons including:
Captain and cook and all meals with open bar. The price is $185 per person a
day with a minimum of 4 persons. For more information please contact us:
hunter44@explore-yachts.com
